Rules of the road in Qatar

I’ve been driving at least two hours per day in Doha for about two weeks now. Tony has written an excellent entry on what it’s like to drive here. I’d like to add my two cents in the form of this handy list that I’ve compiled in my head as I’ve been out and about.

Before you drive:

1. Go to the bathroom, even if you don’t have to right at the moment. You have no idea how long it will take to get to where you’re going and you may unexpectedly be stuck in traffic for longer than you anticipate.

2. Eat and drink, especially if you’re like me and get extremely cranky when deprived of food. You should do this for the same reason listed in item 1. Additionally, during Ramadan, none of the restaurants are open during the day and you get in trouble for having food/drink in your car. So no Starbucks on the way!

3. Many of the cars here have a decal on the back window that says “maa sha Allah”. Loosely translated, it means “whatever God intends”. This is a good thing to keep in mind as you head out. You only have a limited amount of control over what’s going to happen to you on the road.

4. On a related note, you may want to pray to your favorite deity—personally, I talk to both God and Allah (really the same person but it never hurts to address him/her by both names). I also meditate on the Buddha to gain a sense of inner calm.

General rules:

1. Lane control is not a big deal. If you get a gut feeling that the guy in the little Daihatsu to your right is going to drift over into your lane, he’s probably going to do just that. Be prepared to take evasive action.

2. Turn signals are optional. When you’re getting into the left-hand turn lane at an intersection, it’s clearly marked as left, so why bother putting your signal on? Everyone knows you’re going to turn left. Unless you change your mind. Really, in most situations, putting a turn signal on just limits your options…if you don’t signal a particular direction, then ALL directions are open to you!

3. The left lane is for passing slower cars on the right, and is also considered the fast lane. However, any lane can be the fast lane if a speeding Land Cruiser is in it.

4. Speaking of Land Cruisers…they can appear almost magically sometimes, right behind you. And I mean right on your behind. It’s best to get out of their way as soon as you can.

5. If you come up on a Daihatsu, Nissan, or Toyota mini pickup, chances are they will be going slow. Pass them as soon as you can, making sure that there are no Land Cruisers coming up behind you (see item 4).

6. Sometimes people go in through the exit. Other times they go out through the entrance. Sometimes they drive on the wrong side of the road. Be on the lookout for this.

7. Sometimes you may have to drive backward to get out of a small parking lot.

Intersections:

1. Try to get into the correct lane for what you want to do. So if you want to turn left, try to be in the left lane, be in the right lane for a right-hand turn, etc. However, if you didn’t get into the correct lane, don’t worry—just push your way into the correct lane by nosing in front or behind the car next to you.

2. Leave as little space as possible between you and the next car to limit the number of people who will edge their way in front of you because they picked the wrong lane, as described above.

3. If the intersection is really slow and crowded, you can try honking your horn. This is not a long, drawn-out honk as you tend to hear in the States; rather it’s more of a “toot-toot” sound. Honking your horn won’t really change anything (remember, “Whatever God intends”) but it may make you feel a little better.

4. If you’re stuck at an intersection for a while (5-10 minutes), it’s a good time to read the paper and talk on your cell phone. You could also yell at your kids, who are climbing around unrestrained in the back of your car.

5. If you really want to take matters into your own hands at a slow, crowded intersection, you have two options: You can take an exit lane off the road but don’t exit—essentially, use it to get 3-5 cars ahead of where you were, then push your way back in line (see item 1 in this section). You can also drive over the strip of bricks that separates the road from the grass, make your way through the construction site of a new compound, then merge back on to the “official” road. NOTE: this last option is best accomplished with a Land Cruiser or equivalent four-wheel drive automobile.

Roundabouts:

1. Again, try to get into the correct lane for the exit you’re going to take, but if you can’t, just make the adjustment to the correct lane once you’re in the roundabout.

2. If a policeman is directing traffic at the roundabout, expect things to take longer. Do what he says until his back is turned, then go on your merry way.

3. As for entering the roundabout: I think of it as a big school of fish swimming around in a circle. Except that potentially, each one of them could kill you, because it’s 2000 pounds’ worth of metal. You pick your spot and go, making sure to look in front, behind, and on either side of you for other drivers who may change lanes, stop abruptly, cut off everyone around them to make their exit, or do something else that’s equally unexpected and dangerous.

4. If you’re next to a big bus or semi, try as best you can to give them room, and hold your breath until you or they exit.

5. When exiting, it’s nice to signal your intention (an exception to the general rule of not bothering with turn signals), but don’t expect anyone else to pay attention to it or give you the right of way because of it.

Special Ramadan rules:

As Tony mentioned, between about 4 and 6 pm is bad driving because everyone is starving and trying to make it home to break the fast. There is a lull from about 6 pm to 7 pm. After 7 pm, it’s best to stay in your home if possible. People come out in droves to shop, eat at restaurants, etc. The driving follows the same conventions as above, except that it is now dark outside and you can’t see very well.

- Jocelyn